Small Stool

Overview

A small wooden stool is a great intermediate project for learning how to build a stable piece of furniture from relatively few parts.

For this guide, we will build a stool approximately 40 cm high, 35 cm wide and 35 cm deep. The design uses four straight legs, a solid wooden seat and horizontal supports between the legs.

Difficulty: Medium
Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
Estimated Cost: $20-$50

Materials

Wooden board for the seat
Four wooden legs
Wood for horizontal supports
Wood screws
Wood glue
Sandpaper, 120 and 220 grit
Wood filler (optional)
Wood oil, varnish or paint
Rubber feet (optional)

Tools

Measuring tape
Pencil
Carpenter’s square
Saw
Drill
Screwdriver
Clamps
Level
Sandpaper or electric sander

Recommended Dimensions

For the beginner version:

Overall height: 40 cm
Seat width: 35 cm
Seat depth: 35 cm
Seat thickness: 20-25 mm
Legs: approximately 4 × 4 cm
Leg length: approximately 37.5-38 cm, depending on the exact seat thickness
Lower supports: approximately 8-12 cm above the floor
Leg angle: 90°
Seat corners: 90°

Tips

Make all four legs exactly the same length.
Keep the legs at 90° for the simplest and most stable design.
Add lower supports between the legs to prevent wobbling.
Round the front edges of the seat for comfort.
If the stool will be used by an adult, use strong structural joints rather than relying only on glue.
Test the stool gradually before sitting on it normally.

Safety

Wear safety glasses when cutting and drilling.
Secure wood before cutting.
Keep your hands away from saw blades and drill bits.
Use clamps when assembling the stool.
Do not sit on the stool until the glue and finish have completely cured.

Steps

Step 1 — Measure the Seat

Mark the seat board at approximately 35 × 35 cm.

Use the carpenter’s square to make sure all corners are exactly 90°.

If you want a slightly larger stool, you can increase the seat to 40 × 40 cm, but keep the proportions of the legs and supports appropriate.

Tip: Check the actual thickness of your board before calculating the final leg length. The seat thickness affects the final height.

Step 2 — Cut the Seat

Secure the board firmly to your workbench.

Cut along the marked lines.

Check the edges with the square.

If an edge is slightly uneven, correct it carefully with sanding rather than removing too much material.

Tip: Make the first cut slowly. A straight first edge makes all following measurements much easier.

Step 3 — Prepare the Legs

Cut four legs to the same length.

For a 40 cm stool with a 20-25 mm seat, start around 37.5-38 cm and adjust according to your actual construction.

Place all four legs together and compare them.

Tip: Even a 2-3 mm difference can cause the finished stool to rock, so measure rather than assuming the legs are identical.

Step 4 — Sand the Legs and Seat

Start with 120-grit sandpaper.

Smooth all cut edges and surfaces.

Finish with 220-grit.

Slightly round the exposed edges of the seat.

Tip: Sand in a dry area and remove all dust before assembly. Dust between joints can prevent the pieces from fitting tightly.

Step 5 — Build the Leg Frames

Place two legs on a flat surface.

Position a horizontal support between them approximately 8-12 cm above the floor.

Keep the support perpendicular to the legs at approximately 90°.

Drill pilot holes and secure the support using glue and screws.

Repeat with the other pair of legs.

Tip: Use a square while attaching every support. Small errors become much more noticeable after the two frames are connected.

Step 6 — Connect the Two Frames

Stand the two leg frames upright.

Connect them with additional horizontal supports.

Check that the four legs remain parallel and approximately 90° to the floor.

Measure the distance between the legs at the top and bottom.

Tip: If the distances are different, correct the frame before tightening the screws completely.

Step 7 — Test the Frame

Place the unfinished frame on a flat floor.

Check:

All four legs touch the ground.
The frame does not rock.
The legs remain straight.
The supports are secure.

Do not attach the seat yet.

Tip: This is the easiest stage to fix a crooked frame. Once the seat is attached, correcting the structure becomes much harder.

Step 8 — Attach the Seat

Place the seat on top of the frame.

Center it so there is approximately the same overhang on all four sides.

For a 35 × 35 cm seat, aim for equal spacing around the frame.

Drill pilot holes from underneath and attach the seat with screws.

Tip: Whenever possible, install the screws from underneath so the top of the stool remains clean and free from visible screw heads.

Step 9 — Final Sanding

Inspect the entire stool.

Sand all remaining rough areas with 220-grit sandpaper.

Pay special attention to:

Seat edges
Corners
Screw areas
Bottom of the legs
Support joints

Remove all dust.

Tip: Run your hand slowly over every edge. If you can feel a sharp spot, it still needs sanding.

Step 10 — Apply the Finish

Move the stool to a clean, dry and well-ventilated room.

Apply paint, oil or varnish in thin coats.

Allow every coat to dry completely.

Do not place the stool in a dusty workshop while the finish is still wet.

Tip: Place the stool on clean supports while finishing the legs so the wet coating does not stick to the floor.

Step 11 — Test the Stool

Place the finished stool on a flat surface.

First apply light pressure with your hands.

Then gradually increase the load.

Check for:

Rocking
Cracking sounds
Moving joints
Loose screws
Leg movement

If anything moves, stop using the stool and reinforce the affected joint.

Tip: Never ignore a small amount of movement in a load-bearing piece of furniture. A loose joint usually becomes worse with repeated use.

Final Check

Height approximately 40 cm.
Seat approximately 35 × 35 cm.
Four legs are equal length.
Legs remain at approximately 90°.
Stool does not rock.
All structural joints are secure.
Seat is firmly attached.
Finish is completely dry.